Lycabettus Hill

Syntagma Metro station

I got lucky today - although it rained in the morning, by 11 a.m., the sun came out and I was able to hike up Mt. Lycabettus for a view of Athens. I took the metro to Syntagma Square and then walked through the Kolonaki district - very posh, with expensive shops and bars, near the University of Athens and many of the Embassies as well as the parliament buildings. 

Syntagma Square

Kolonaki District

It was about 12 degrees Celsius but more in the sun although for Greeks it's the middle of winter, so everyone was bundled up. I stopped at a cafe for a coffee and a croissant to get some fuel for my hike and then found Lycavitou Street, which headed uphill. I didn't count the stairs, but there were a lot!

 

Talk about a lot of stairs! 














 

It looked like I was half way up already and still in the city!

After the stairs ended, next there was a path.

The hill looked very steep. I had heard that there was a funicular tram to the top, but couldn't find the station, so kept going encouraged by a couple from Dublin who kept me company for awhile.

Finally - success!

That's the Acropolis in the distance behind me. It does look like I'm at the top of the world, doesn't it? I certainly felt like I was. Ouch!

Agii Isidori Church at the top of Mt. Lycabettus

I didn't want to leave the top - the weather was fantastic, so was the view - and even a lovely little church graced the top of the hill.

I was also tempted to have lunch at this nice restaurant. Notice how uncrowded the place is in winter.

I found the funicular - the entrance at the top is near the restaurant. Four Euros to go one way and seven Euros up and down. Since I already did the hard part by hiking uphill, it was an easy decision to walk down as well. 









I was rewarded by another lovely view of the Acropolis and was soon back in the city centre again. Just in time, because soon the clouds rolled in once more.

 

Monastiraki

View of Acropolis from Monastiraki Square

It rained off and on today, but I was happy to have arrived in Athens and went to the city center as soon as I could. I had never been to Monastiraki district and it took me awhile to find the outdoor market because it is not at the Monastiraki Square but Varvakeios Agora about five minutes north from the metro station along Athinas street.

The Central Market has many shops and stalls selling all sorts of food: grain, nuts, seeds, pasta, spices, herbs, fruit and vegetables, cheese, sausages, meat and fish. I'm sure you could find anything you wanted.

 

  
 Of course, even though I only came to look and take photos, I couldn't resist and bought some mandarin oranges (at 1 Euro for two kilo, who could resist), olives, feta, sausage and my favourite figs.

I didn't buy any fish or meat because I wasn't sure what my hosts were planning for a meal, but all the food looked delicious.

 The prices seemed very reasonable and I was happy to contribute some food to my friends. With several bags weighing me down, it was time to go home for a well deserved lunch.

Packing for a three month winter trip to Greece

Today is the day that I fly to Greece. I decided to take only my 26 liter Deuter  backpack that I bought at MEC in Toronto last summer.
I am not taking a personal article such as a purse, because EasyJet's carry on rules only allow one bag although their carry on bag dimensions of 56 x 45 x 25cm are greater than what WestJet allows. WestJet allows a smaller carry-on of maximum 53 cm x 23 cm x 38 cm (21 in. x 9 in. x 15 in.) but also a personal article of 41 cm x 15 cm x 33 cm (16 in. x 6 in. x 13 in.)
So, the result is that I can only carry one small backpack. That's not a problem, because I like traveling light.
Here is my packing list for three months in Greece in winter (including what I will be wearing):

1 pair of hiking boots
1 pair of woolen socks
1 gortex jacket
1 sweatshirt with zipper front
1 pair of black pants that go with everything and are very comfortable for flying
1 pair of black tights
2 sleeveless tops
1 white turtle neck pullover sweater
1 knitted hair band for warmth

1 pair of jeans
1 red, light cardigan

1 dress for special occasions
1 pair of going out shoes
1 extra pair of woolen socks
1 scarf
1 two piece bathing suit (I'm an optimist, since the sea temperature in winter is about 15 degrees C. brrrr.)
1 nightie
3 pairs of underwear
2 bras
laptop and power cord
digital camera and accessories
smart phone with power cord
Travels with Epicurus by Daniel Klein
knitting
gift for my hosts
cosmetic/shower kit
2 pair of glasses
1 pair of sunglasses
passport and documents
wallet. 


The first items on this list include what I will be wearing for the flight. I leave Toronto when it will be cold and I arrive in Athens at night when it also will be cold, so wearing lots of layers will add to what I can take with me without paying for extra luggage.

Designer Neck pillow

I put my camera, book, phone, glasses, documents, the gift of chocolates and wallet in my jacket pockets so that I have those with me at all times.  I also put the cardigan, the dress, scarf, nightie, and extra underwear in a nylon stocking to make a neck pillow for sleeping on the plane. The pack will go in the overhead bin and my jacket with all the important things next to me on the plane. I will also remove the laptop from the bag so that I can use it on board during the flight. 
I think I'm ready! Catch you later.

Haris Alexiou and Spanakopita

When I get lonely for Greece, I play some music by Haris Alexiou and make spanakopita. Here is my favourite concert by this magnificent singer:

  

And here is my recipe for spanakopita:

3 boxes of frozen chopped spinach (defrosted), or 1 kg. of fresh spinach or horta (cooked and chopped)
1/2 cup (125 ml) of olive oil
4 onions (diced)
1/2 cup of fresh cilantro or parsley (chopped)
1/2 cup of fresh dill  (chopped)
1/2 lb. (250g) goat feta (crumbled)
1/2 lb. (250g.) ricotta cheese
4 eggs lightly beaten

salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup butter (melted)
1/2 cup olive oil 
1 lb. phyllo pastry sheets cut to fit the pans

Saute the onions in olive oil, then add the cilantro and dill. Squeeze as much as possible of the water from the spinach and mix in with the onions. Add salt and pepper to taste. Leave aside.
In a medium bowl, mix the feta, ricotta and eggs. Add the onion and spinach and mix in well. 
Grease two 2x12 pans with the oil and butter mixture, lay down 10 sheets of phyllo in each pan, brushing each layer with butter and oil. Add half of the spinach mixture to each pan making sure you don't use any of the liquid left on the bottom of the bowl - you don't want your spanakopita to be soggy! Cover this with 10 more layers of phyllo sheets brushing with butter mixture each layer. Finally brush well the top layer, cut through the top phyllo layers with a sharp knife so that it's easier to cut it into pieces after baking. Bake at 350 for half an hour. Enjoy!

  

Dreaming of escape in Toronto

I think I am one of the last romantics when it comes to Greece. No matter how bad the economy is, I long to live there and not only that but I ache to buy a piece of land and be a farmer! Crazy, no?
Well, perhaps not.
I walk through downtown Toronto on my way from the library to the subway and feel like a demented soul. The subway car is full of students and working people since it is early afternoon. No one makes eye contact, everyone is immersed in their phones, the man sitting beside me reeks of alcohol. "Please stand clear of the door, next station is Dundas, Dundas station," is the only "human" voice I hear. All is  gray and black, rarely someone wears red or white or any other bright colour. My eyes are hungry for colour, my ears long for animated conversation, laughter, music and most of all my body longs for sunshine.


In the middle of December, the first snow fell and soon Toronto drowned in deep freeze. Shoveling one's section of the sidewalk is exhilarating the first time, especially when the snow is still fresh, but a day later doing the same thing on ice and with the prospect of more on a weekly if not daily basis does not thrill. 
I am here to see my son and his family but after a month, I needed to do something more.

Having retired a year ago, I am free to do what I like as long as it falls within the bounds of my monthly pension income. I have a sailboat stored for the winter in a boat yard in the Ionian, Greece, and plan to sail as usual during the summer but what could I do in winter? 
I long to explore my favourite country - Greece so late in December, I decide to head back after the Christmas holidays.

I search for cheap plane tickets and find a good price for the middle of January. WestJet will get me to London, Gatwick one way for less than $300 and then EasyJet to Athens for about $80 more. Escape is within my reach.

But until it is time to pack my bag, I make up my mind to stop whining and enjoy the time I have left here, so go for long walks in town in all kinds of weather...

Try to find inspiration by taking memorable photos.  

Join my family at the local indoor pool...

 

Watch a dance show...

Play 'Evolution' and 'Ticket to Ride' with my son and grandson about a hundred times...

Dodge speeding sleds in the park... 

Make tiramisu, bake spanakopita and meet with friends...

Over all, I am making myself useful and so far have survived two months in a city that I had previously thought I had escaped permanently after graduating from school. Sorry Toronto and those of you who love the city - too much concrete for my liking and I miss watching the sun rise.