Ikaria Island harbours

Ikaria is not well known to sailors because it is notorious for strong winds and lack of safe harbours. The two main harbours, Evdilos on the north side and Agios Kirikos on the south side of the island offer limited shelter in settled weather. 
However, a new marina has been built east of Agios Kirikos that might encourage few more yachts to stop here.
The following video and images were taken in February of 2017 during relatively good weather. 

This is Evdilos harbour on the north side of Ikaria during a 20-30 knot northerly wind. Note how far from the quay the boats are tied down.

Evdilos harbour from above.

Agios Kirikos on the south side of the island seems like a safer bet during the winter. There is a new marina here and a few boats left in the water for the winter. The ferry from Piraeus comes twice a week (in winter, probably more often during the summer), there is a small ferry that sails weather permitting to the village of Karkinagri further south, and another one to Fourni Island. Even the fishing boats venture out now and then.

Entrance to Agios Kirikos main harbour and the new marina on the right. Photo taken facing south west.

Two boats that have remained in Agios Kirikos inner harbour during the winter. Note the number of mooring lines.

New marina just east of the town of Agios Kirikos. Photo taken in February 2017 facing north east.

Entrance to the new Agios Kirikos marina.

Boats tied up in the new marina.

Small boat launching area.

Office building in the new marina.

View of the new marina towards east and the entrance.

Drive around Ikaria

Anytime I rent a car, I fill out all the paperwork the night before, so that I have it from early morning all day. I rarely drive after dark and on Ikaria it would be suicidal, especially the first time. 
I was only allowed on the main, paved roads, which I thought limited me to no end, but after seeing what the main roads looked like, I agreed that it was wise advice. Furthermore, notice how low the front of the car is - insurance that the person who rents the car obeys the limitations of the contract. Here is the map of my six hour trip.

Sculpture outside of Agios Kirikos

Main road from Agios Kirikos to Evdilos. Very narrow, with steep drop-off on one side and steep mountain on the other side. With the wind blasting through the passes, I was afraid of being blown off this road.

Monastery on top of a rocky crag. Protection and view point against the pirates.

The north coast of Ikaria during northerly 20-30 knots in winter.

Evdilos harbour

Even the bank has rooms for rent.

Another view of Evdilos.

No wonder the people here live longer - talk about stair master.

Kampos beach in winter.

Analipsi Church near Gialiskari, Ikaria.

Surfing anyone?

One of the homes on the north coast of Ikaria.

Armenistis village.

Mountain village and road cling to the cliffs.

View south after crossing the mountain pass.

Katafigio village

Lefkada hot springs.

Lycabettus Hill

Syntagma Metro station

I got lucky today - although it rained in the morning, by 11 a.m., the sun came out and I was able to hike up Mt. Lycabettus for a view of Athens. I took the metro to Syntagma Square and then walked through the Kolonaki district - very posh, with expensive shops and bars, near the University of Athens and many of the Embassies as well as the parliament buildings. 

Syntagma Square

Kolonaki District

It was about 12 degrees Celsius but more in the sun although for Greeks it's the middle of winter, so everyone was bundled up. I stopped at a cafe for a coffee and a croissant to get some fuel for my hike and then found Lycavitou Street, which headed uphill. I didn't count the stairs, but there were a lot!

 

Talk about a lot of stairs! 














 

It looked like I was half way up already and still in the city!

After the stairs ended, next there was a path.

The hill looked very steep. I had heard that there was a funicular tram to the top, but couldn't find the station, so kept going encouraged by a couple from Dublin who kept me company for awhile.

Finally - success!

That's the Acropolis in the distance behind me. It does look like I'm at the top of the world, doesn't it? I certainly felt like I was. Ouch!

Agii Isidori Church at the top of Mt. Lycabettus

I didn't want to leave the top - the weather was fantastic, so was the view - and even a lovely little church graced the top of the hill.

I was also tempted to have lunch at this nice restaurant. Notice how uncrowded the place is in winter.

I found the funicular - the entrance at the top is near the restaurant. Four Euros to go one way and seven Euros up and down. Since I already did the hard part by hiking uphill, it was an easy decision to walk down as well. 









I was rewarded by another lovely view of the Acropolis and was soon back in the city centre again. Just in time, because soon the clouds rolled in once more.

 

Monastiraki

View of Acropolis from Monastiraki Square

It rained off and on today, but I was happy to have arrived in Athens and went to the city center as soon as I could. I had never been to Monastiraki district and it took me awhile to find the outdoor market because it is not at the Monastiraki Square but Varvakeios Agora about five minutes north from the metro station along Athinas street.

The Central Market has many shops and stalls selling all sorts of food: grain, nuts, seeds, pasta, spices, herbs, fruit and vegetables, cheese, sausages, meat and fish. I'm sure you could find anything you wanted.

 

  
 Of course, even though I only came to look and take photos, I couldn't resist and bought some mandarin oranges (at 1 Euro for two kilo, who could resist), olives, feta, sausage and my favourite figs.

I didn't buy any fish or meat because I wasn't sure what my hosts were planning for a meal, but all the food looked delicious.

 The prices seemed very reasonable and I was happy to contribute some food to my friends. With several bags weighing me down, it was time to go home for a well deserved lunch.

Packing for a three month winter trip to Greece

Today is the day that I fly to Greece. I decided to take only my 26 liter Deuter  backpack that I bought at MEC in Toronto last summer.
I am not taking a personal article such as a purse, because EasyJet's carry on rules only allow one bag although their carry on bag dimensions of 56 x 45 x 25cm are greater than what WestJet allows. WestJet allows a smaller carry-on of maximum 53 cm x 23 cm x 38 cm (21 in. x 9 in. x 15 in.) but also a personal article of 41 cm x 15 cm x 33 cm (16 in. x 6 in. x 13 in.)
So, the result is that I can only carry one small backpack. That's not a problem, because I like traveling light.
Here is my packing list for three months in Greece in winter (including what I will be wearing):

1 pair of hiking boots
1 pair of woolen socks
1 gortex jacket
1 sweatshirt with zipper front
1 pair of black pants that go with everything and are very comfortable for flying
1 pair of black tights
2 sleeveless tops
1 white turtle neck pullover sweater
1 knitted hair band for warmth

1 pair of jeans
1 red, light cardigan

1 dress for special occasions
1 pair of going out shoes
1 extra pair of woolen socks
1 scarf
1 two piece bathing suit (I'm an optimist, since the sea temperature in winter is about 15 degrees C. brrrr.)
1 nightie
3 pairs of underwear
2 bras
laptop and power cord
digital camera and accessories
smart phone with power cord
Travels with Epicurus by Daniel Klein
knitting
gift for my hosts
cosmetic/shower kit
2 pair of glasses
1 pair of sunglasses
passport and documents
wallet. 


The first items on this list include what I will be wearing for the flight. I leave Toronto when it will be cold and I arrive in Athens at night when it also will be cold, so wearing lots of layers will add to what I can take with me without paying for extra luggage.

Designer Neck pillow

I put my camera, book, phone, glasses, documents, the gift of chocolates and wallet in my jacket pockets so that I have those with me at all times.  I also put the cardigan, the dress, scarf, nightie, and extra underwear in a nylon stocking to make a neck pillow for sleeping on the plane. The pack will go in the overhead bin and my jacket with all the important things next to me on the plane. I will also remove the laptop from the bag so that I can use it on board during the flight. 
I think I'm ready! Catch you later.

It's all Greek to me

Eirini and Barbara enjoying mezes - appetizers

Many people are surprised that I am learning Greek. "But it's so difficult!" they say. "How do you do it?"
Well, if you learn one word a day, in any language, soon you will be able to communicate at least on a simple practical level. Don't worry about memorizing the alphabet - you won't  need it for a long time. Not until you want to read Greek newspapers because most street names and menus in Greece are also written in English.
Start with a simple, "Yassas" - hello and just use it whenever you meet another person or walk into a shop or restaurant. In return you will also get a "Yassas," or "Herete" - greetings, or "Kali Mera" - good day, and a smile or an acknowledgement. You will make someone's day. Try it. 
And don't worry, no one will expect you to be fluent if you say it, and if you don't understand their reply, just shrug your shoulders and smile. Body language is after all 80% of communication. You can point and draw pictures if the person you are trying to communicate with doesn't speak any English, but that won't likely happen - most Greeks who work in the tourism industry, speak it. Only the very old people might not.
The second most useful word is, "Efharisto" - thank you. You can go a long way with just those two words but if you want one more, then say "Parakalo" - please.
So, three words: Yassas, Efharisto and Parakalo will help make your holiday in Greece so much more special.
After that, if you find yourself drawn to Ellada - Greece over and over again, like I have - and really want to learn more, then get yourself a Pimsleur Greek language MP3 download. It's the easiest way to learn. Listen to it at home, on a plane or a bus and you will absorb it naturally, without any effort like a child of two learning to speak for the first time. And then use what you have learned in your every day conversation.
Keep using your new words even if the person you are speaking to replies in English. I often have perfectly comprehensive conversations with Greeks this way - me speaking in Greek and the other person replying in English. We both get to practice.
And soon you will meet someone who will say to you with astonishment in their voice - "I didn't know you could speak Greek - isn't it difficult"? 

Retreat on Salamina Island, Greece

I am planning a retreat this winter on the island of Salamina. My friend Toula has a three bedroom house there, which she rents out during the summer, but which is standing empty during the winter, so she is letting me stay in exchange for paying the utilities, keeping it warm and dry and moving out if she finds paying guests or needs it for her family. I think it's a great deal for me and I hope my small contribution will help her pay off some bills.

  

The island is near Athens and a short ferry ride will get you there. The house is near the village of Kaki Vigla and looks out towards Piraeus. 

Here are some photos of the view from the house: