Ikaria Island harbours

Ikaria is not well known to sailors because it is notorious for strong winds and lack of safe harbours. The two main harbours, Evdilos on the north side and Agios Kirikos on the south side of the island offer limited shelter in settled weather. 
However, a new marina has been built east of Agios Kirikos that might encourage few more yachts to stop here.
The following video and images were taken in February of 2017 during relatively good weather. 

This is Evdilos harbour on the north side of Ikaria during a 20-30 knot northerly wind. Note how far from the quay the boats are tied down.

Evdilos harbour from above.

Agios Kirikos on the south side of the island seems like a safer bet during the winter. There is a new marina here and a few boats left in the water for the winter. The ferry from Piraeus comes twice a week (in winter, probably more often during the summer), there is a small ferry that sails weather permitting to the village of Karkinagri further south, and another one to Fourni Island. Even the fishing boats venture out now and then.

Entrance to Agios Kirikos main harbour and the new marina on the right. Photo taken facing south west.

Two boats that have remained in Agios Kirikos inner harbour during the winter. Note the number of mooring lines.

New marina just east of the town of Agios Kirikos. Photo taken in February 2017 facing north east.

Entrance to the new Agios Kirikos marina.

Boats tied up in the new marina.

Small boat launching area.

Office building in the new marina.

View of the new marina towards east and the entrance.

Drive around Ikaria

Anytime I rent a car, I fill out all the paperwork the night before, so that I have it from early morning all day. I rarely drive after dark and on Ikaria it would be suicidal, especially the first time. 
I was only allowed on the main, paved roads, which I thought limited me to no end, but after seeing what the main roads looked like, I agreed that it was wise advice. Furthermore, notice how low the front of the car is - insurance that the person who rents the car obeys the limitations of the contract. Here is the map of my six hour trip.

Sculpture outside of Agios Kirikos

Main road from Agios Kirikos to Evdilos. Very narrow, with steep drop-off on one side and steep mountain on the other side. With the wind blasting through the passes, I was afraid of being blown off this road.

Monastery on top of a rocky crag. Protection and view point against the pirates.

The north coast of Ikaria during northerly 20-30 knots in winter.

Evdilos harbour

Even the bank has rooms for rent.

Another view of Evdilos.

No wonder the people here live longer - talk about stair master.

Kampos beach in winter.

Analipsi Church near Gialiskari, Ikaria.

Surfing anyone?

One of the homes on the north coast of Ikaria.

Armenistis village.

Mountain village and road cling to the cliffs.

View south after crossing the mountain pass.

Katafigio village

Lefkada hot springs.

First day in Agios Kirikos, Ikaria

Sunrise from my balcony

 At 07:11 the sun comes through the v in the mountains of Fournoi Island to the east and an owl begins hooting. White caps out at sea – windy today - 22 knots from the north, temperature 8 degrees Celsius.

Window with a view

View of Samos and Fourni Islands

Early morning visitor

Men gather at a cafe below my room, so it must be open. Also, someone is living below to my left – laundry is hanging on the balcony.

It's not an owl, it's a dove or a pigeon. It suddenly lands on my balcony railing.

At eight, I see more people. A father takes his daughter and son to school on a motorcycle: the boy behind, the girl in front. The day has begun. Time to find a bakery.
And there it is: a wood fired bakery just behind my apartment. 

The bakery with a wood fired oven.

Nikos taking the bread out of the wood fired oven

 During my morning walk, I also notice a serve-yourself laundromat (E3.50 for a huge machine, E2.50 to dry), several grocery stores, three banks (and I thought I wouldn't be able to access money here), numerous cafes and tavernas, in other words, everything I might need within a one or two minute walk from my room. Talk about convenient.

The grocery store

The laundromat

The book and stationary store

Julia's shoe store

Car rental office

So, the next challenge is to find a less expensive room to rent for a month. I ask everywhere I go: at the bakery, at a cafe run by a woman named Maria, who is not busy and full of information. She also directs me to a book shop where I might find some books in English, so I go there. I find one book to read: "Ikarian Tales, a collection of stories about a veryunusual island" by Topsy Douris, E16.00.

Of course, I ask the man at the shop about a room for rent and he directs me across the street to the shoe shop where a woman named Julia tells me that she in fact has two studios available on the floor below where I am now staying for E120 Euros per month (+30 227 502 2891/mob. 697 816 3666). Both look very nice and I take unit #1 which is a corner unit and so has a bit more light. No view of the sea, but the price and location are right and Julia promises to let me know when a sea view apartment becomes available. So, that's taken care of before ten in the morning. 

My studio in Agios Kirikos

Next, I walk to Therma, where I had a room promised already, just to see and on the way, check out another place, Aktio, which has tremendous views of the sea and a terrace, next to her cafe, but Marsha (husband Stefanos), wants E250 per month. Having just scored what seems like the cheapest place in town, I'm not tempted. 

I follow the coastal road north east up and down some hills and finally about 20 minutes later, descend a steep road to Therma. The view from the road is lovely but the village of Therma is a disappointment. 
Located in a gully, it looks deserted and under major renovation. Nothing is open, not even one cafe or one shop. Yes, it's February, so no surprise. I'm sure it's busy in summer. Nevertheless, since I made the trip, I call Nikos who says he's at work in another town and to ask the charter captain who is staying at one of Nikos' rooms to show me the studio. 

I climb up several serious steps among the buildings to his property, but there is no sign of the captain, just some big woman panties hanging on a line. So, there are people living here, just not enough of them to warrant any shops being open. Needless to say all the thermal baths are shut down as well, except one in a cave which looks pretty rough for me to venture in even if I had brought my bathing suit.

View of Samos Island from the coastal road to Therma.

Therma harbour

A thermal spring pool in a cave in Therma

I pray for a car or a scooter to be going my way back up the hill, so that I can beg a ride but none do except a fuel truck which pulls away before I get to it. Never mind, I manage to struggle up the hill and slowly make my way back. There is a lovely church on the way and a woman who is tending it, comes up as I am passing and we walk to the village together, chatting about the other islands and how I should go check them out or let her know if I want her husband who is a taxi driver to take me around this island. I politely decline and make my way back home.

View towards Agios Kirikos harbour from the coastal road to Therma.

Julia and I make a deal, I get the key and she gets the 120 Euros. She also notes the count on the electric meter. I had better keep that in mind when turning the heater on. She did say about 20 Euros, but one never knows. I will ask her for a count after a week, just to see how I'm doing.

It's now noon, so off I go to the grocery shop and then home for lunch of bread and kefalotiri with more coffee. Laundry next and a walk around town in search for a small electric heater for the bathroom.

Hello Ikaria

At about quarter to midnight, I can see the lights at the western end of Ikaria, but it takes another half an hour to get to Agios Kirikos and the ferry landing. Of course, I am the first in line to get off the ferry and step ashore. What a feeling. My new home.

Arrival in Agios Kirikos, Ikaria

Passengers disembarking ferry in Agios Kirikos

Ferry "Nissos Rodos" in Agias Kirikos

Daidalos Studio

View from my room

I walk to town, which is three minutes away, and from a car rental office call Kostas, who shows me to my room.

It is tiny, but beautiful and everything is there: heat, hot water, plugs for everything even coffee, sugar and pasta in the kitchenette. Very nice place and it shows love, caring and friendliness.

It's now two in the morning, so finally time for bed.

Piraeus to Ikaria

Nissos Rodos ferry to Syros, Mikonos and Ikaria

When I arrive on the shuttle bus, Nissos Rodos is already loading and walk on passengers are allowed to board at 2 p.m. It's a new, luxurious ferry with greeters at the bottom and an escalator to take the passengers upstairs. I go up to 8^th deck where I find a door leading to the outside and walk to the front of the ship to face a beautiful view of the sea and the sun shining brightly and no wind. There is no one else here.

Sunny day on the ferry to Ikaria

My pack has a small foam pad inside, so I make myself comfortable on deck and sit leaning against the forward part of the cabin.

We still have over an hour to wait before departing and then three hours more of daylight – no problem, so as long as I can I sit here, enjoy the sun and knit. 

 

Heading south our of port of Piraeus

Finally, two men on the bow let go of the mooring lines. Two on the port side, two on the starboard and slowly we inch away from the quay helped by the wind. We wait until another ferry enters through the narrow gap between breakwaters and then steam straight south. (Or should I say sail? No, neither works).

View of Acropolis in the distance

I look behind and catch a glimpse of the Acropolis to the left of a tall building. Good bye Athens.

Sailboat off the port bow

Not too far away, but far enough, we pass a sailboat with the jib out, heading towards the east. It is getting late; I hope the skipper has plenty of time to reach port before dark. It is amazing how small the sailboat looks from the upper deck of a ship but only because it is so close. 
The captain of the ferry gives it one blast on the horn and we pass it to starboard. Meanwhile, I say a prayer for a friend, Paul Lim who disappeared last summer with his sailboat after leaving Hawaii headed for British Columbia.
Slowly we begin to turn towards Syros, our first stop. Just before the sun goes down, I notice a small island, Agios Georgios that is full of wind generators. It looks awful to my eyes - luckily it is uninhabited.

Wind farm on Agios Georgios Island in the Sardonic Gulf

It is getting dark and cold and a peek towards the bow convinces me that it's now too dangerous to be there any more. It's slippery and the boat is lurching on the waves – they've grown substantially since we left port. The wind is blowing force 7 to 8 - the sea is covered with white caps. However, the ship is big and is riding steadily. 
Inside, where I retreat, there is very little movement and after we stop in Syros, I settle in one of the lounge chairs. I sleep through our stop in Mikonos (my pillow collar helps immensely) and don't move until about 11:30 when we are near Ikaria.

 

Sunset in the Aegean